JOIN AWARD-WINNING CHEF BEN MCRAE (●WWW.FIFTHTASTE.COM.AU) EVERY MONTH IN THIS COLUMN, AS HE UNVEILS THE TIPS AND TRICKS OF THOSE RESTAURANTS AND BARS THAT ENSURE CUSTOMERS LEAVE WITH A SENSE OF GASTRONOMIC ENJOYMENT THAT MAKES THEM DESIRE THOSE FLAVORS OVER AND OVER AGAIN.
Dining out in Thonglor is often a picky choice, but when I heard Chef Ton from Ledu had opened a new breakfast/brunch bar, I had to go check it out.
Taper restaurant is located just off Thonglor 13 next to Little Beast. It has a cozy split-level setup that seats around 12 diners downstairs, six of whom are seated at the chef’s observatory and six at the front window. The house can then accommodate another 20 covers upstairs. Open from Tuesday to Sunday 9 a.m. till 4 p.m., this clever little establishment is the work of Chef Ton and one of his culinary school buddies, Chef Toon. The menu covers everything you could want for that pick-me-up or for a good meal to start the day. From fresh juices, smoothies, and coffee, to eggs, congee, granola, and burgers, there is something for everyone.
I arrived around 1 p.m. on a Wednesday and the place was in full swing. I took a seat at the front window, and after a quick glance at the menu, I had a mango smoothie, congee, and Wagyu short rib burger on the way.
The mango smoothie (THB 150) was sweet and well blended, just as I like it. Then came the congee (THB 330). Served with pork belly bacon, mushroom, scallion, rice crisps, fried ginger, and sous-vide egg, the congee was one of those dishes where I just could not put my spoon down. The base of the dish was so flavorsome and addictive that after my second mouthful I was salivating and wanting more. It reminded me of one of those childhood dishes that stay with you forever.
This was definitely a dish I would be coming back for. After I scraped the bowl clean, my Wagyu short rib burger (THB 450) arrived. It was served on a brioche bun with the usual garnishes of bacon, lettuce, tomato, onion marmalade, mustard, and ketchup; the twist on this dish was that the chefs had taken some short rib and turned it into a delicious, tender burger patty. I could not complain about the burger, but the congee had left such an impression on my tastebuds, I could think about nothing else!
I decided to finish my experience with a dessert and ordered the coconut pancake with coconut cream, coconut caramel, and almond crumbs (THB 235). A very Asian-inspired dessert, one that reminded me of a dish I had once tried at the night market in Saigon.
Taper now has a number of branches throughout Bangkok, and I have to say that this is one location I will be experiencing again.
The young, hip crowd and buzzing atmosphere only add to the fun. I suggest you get on down to Taper and see for yourself.
Try the congee!
