Meat lovers have a new dining destination that delivers a delicious slice of Americana.by Thomas Sturrock
The New York Style franchise established its first foothold in Shanghai, offering genuine American staples to an Asian market. Now, owner Dennis Barco has joined forces with Thai foodie and former model Naalinlat Kollman to bring the Big Apple to the Big Mango.
New York Style Steak and Burger Bangkok (28 Sukhumvit Soi 22; nysteakandburger.com; 02-262-0920) is located in the new foodie enclave that heralds the continuing overhaul of Sukhumvit Soi 22. It’s opposite the old Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel and counts the Wine Depot as its downstairs neighbor.
The interior of this meat-eaters paradise is high-ceilinged and well-lit, providing panoramic views of the soi below. There’s a mixture of light wood and industrial touches that will be familiar to anyone who regularly eats out in Bangkok, but the overall effect makes for a space that is equally as welcoming during the day as in the evening – which is not always an easy balance to strike.
As befits anywhere channeling New York, there are some bold and brassy cocktails on offer to get proceedings underway. The interestingly-named Meatpacking District combines bourbon, gin, lime juice, bitters and ginger ale. It packs quite a punch. For those who prefer milder tipples, there’s the Central Park, made with cucumber, coriander, Tanqueray gin, muddled mint and lime, topped with soda water.
But, as billed, it’s all about the burgers – or, at least, the red meat. And the offerings here are right up there with the best in Bangkok. The signature item is the Manhattan Monster, which comes with crispy bacon, cheddar cheese, a fried egg, firehouse chili, onion rings, lettuce, pickle and tomato. Make no mistake, this is no dinky little slider that barely touches the sides – this is a proper two-handed affair with a high-quality USDA beef patty in the middle of it all.
Burgers have come massively into vogue in Bangkok in recent years and that trend has sometimes been accompanied with a desire to over-complicate things, by engineering burgers that sound intriguing but often fail to deliver. There’s no danger of that here, where the combinations are distinct enough to offer variety but still allow the quality of the burger to shine through.
The Atomic introduces a spicier element with a zingy sauce, jalapeño ranch dressing and fried onions, along with lettuce, homemade pickle and tomato. For those steering clear of beef, there’s a chicken alternative: the Chicken Little, which combines a boneless chicken thigh marinated and grilled with horseradish sauce and mayo, topped with lettuce, homemade pickle, onion and tomato.
For those keen on exploring non-burger options, there’s another delicious slice of Americana, in the form of the NYC Steak Sandwich A delicious sirloin is topped with caramelized onions, salad, tomato and melted blue cheese served on crusty ciabatta bread. And there’s more.
Whatever your preference, there’s a winning combination here: well-made drinks and top-drawer burgers, all delivered with an unmistakable passion for food in a welcoming environment. All told, this place is poised to become a local favorite.